The White Temple and Black House in Chiang Rai. The Contrasting Worlds.


Chiang Rai
Northern Thailand

Joanna Horanin

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Last updated at 21/06/2024, 13:15

Hi, I'm Joanna, the author of The Blond Travels. In the worlds of Thailand and Portugal, I feel like a fish in water - and it's no coincidence! I've been exploring Thailand for over a decade, and I've settled in Portugal for 6 years now. My mission is to support Dreamers - just like you - in discovering these fascinating countries and helping those in love with them find their own place on Earth, preferably for good! Let's uncover these unique corners of the world together.

The White Temple and the Black House in Chiang Rai are two totally different buildings. The first – in the south – looks like out of a fairy tale. The second – the Black House in the north – is the headquarters of the devil himself. Both buildings are wonderfully odd and stunning at the same time, both contain strange art, which either makes you think, or laugh.

I had wanted to visit the White Temple for a long time. In photos it looked like a fairy tale palace, so I grabbed a first opportunity to go to Chiang Rai and visit it. The Black House was an attraction I hadn’t plan to see at first, but once I heard about it, I just couldn’t say no to a trip there. 

Along with 3 other friends we rented a car for 2 days and we headed to Chiang Rai. Our getaway turned out to be a great idea for a day trip outside of Chiang Mai. We stayed there for a couple of days, but you can leave in the morning and go back on the same day.

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    Visiting Wat Rong Khun, the White Temple in Chiang Rai 

    There are lots of things to see and do in Chiang Rai, but this place should be on the top of your list, no matter if you don’t really like touristy spots. Our first stop was the famous White Temple. I was very excited about visiting it as I had heard a lot of things about it. The experience left me baffled, but before I tell you all about, let’s have a look at some facts first. 

    The main building of the white temple in Chiang Rai with a pond outside of it.
    The main part of the complex is stunning.

    The history of the White Temple 

    Wat Rong Khun, is not really a new temple. At the end of the 20th century it was in a very poor condition. The restoration works stopped because of lack of money.

    A local artist, Chalermachai Kositpitat decided to completely rebuild it in 1997. He funded it all with his own money and wanted the temple to become a centre of meditation and prayer.

    The architects and the designer are still building it and it is said that they won’t finish anytime soon. The artist has already designated others to take over the building project after his death. 

    At the end of the construction it will consist of 9 buildings, including the monks’ living quarters. 

    The White Temple is a very famous attraction in the north of Thailand. The crystals that cover the roofs and the walls of the structures shine in the sun making it look like something out of a fairy tale.

    The crystals and the white colour symbolise Buddha’s purity, wisdom and teachings. It’s every Instagrammer’s dream! However, this also makes the temple extremely popular, so bear that in mind and when you visit, be ready for crowds and standing in queues for quite a long time. 

    The entrance to the White Temple, Chiang Rai.
    The main entrance consists of a small bridge – a symbol of going from hell to heaven.

    The tour around the White Temple in Chiang Rai 

    Touring the temple won’t take you a long time unless you are a fan of architecture, or find this place especially stunning. There is not that much to see here yet. Above all, there are many people here, which makes it harder if you want to see everything up close. 
    However, if you are patient enough, you will be able to get out a lot out of this visit. 

    A sculpture of a white Buddhist demon.
    The entrance is guarded by demons and angels.

    The temple complex consists of the main temple and some smaller ones. Fountains, green lawns and walking paths surround it and despite the crowds, you can still find a peaceful spot to admire your surroundings.

    A stunning bridge, guarded by angles and demons, leads to the main building. It is surrounded by hands, coming out of the ground, pleading to be rescued from hell.

    Once you walk on the bridge, there’s no way out. If you want to turn around, you will be reminded by a man guarding the entrance that turning back will bring you back to hell. So, there is no other way, but to proceed and follow the marked route.

    Sculptures of hands reaching out to the entrance of the temple in chiang rai.
    Under the small bridge there are sculptures of hands of people pleading to be rescued from hell.

    The interior of the Wat is surprising. I expected something equally stunning as the outside. All I found was a tiny room with a big Buddha statue and walls covered in most bizarre paintings I have ever seen in a place of worship. The room is orange and blue with drawings of tiny figures of Batman, Neo from the Matrix, Kung Fu Panda and Michael Jackson all surrounded by small space rockets. Unfortunately, you can take photos of the interior, so I looked at the walls, trying to understand the purpose of it and failing, so I made another circle around the building and left.

    I walked around the temple. It turned out that it wasn’t the end of the ‘artistic’ surprises. I found some hanging heads on the trees….

    A no-smoking sign being made in Thailand.
    There are some modern details scattered all around the complex.

    Thais have a very specific picture of hell and they often show it in the art, which is graphic and doesn’t leave anything to the imagination. If you ever stumble upon sculptures of demons torturing humans, you will understand. 

    There are certain punishments for every single crime and these punishments are painful and gory. 

    Hanging heads in the White Temple’s gardens are supposed to show one of the things that awaits us in hell and considering how graphic these things can get, the masks are quite subtle. 

    The temple is a major tourist attraction and there are lots of people coming here every day. The building is pretty, but if you’re looking for something tranquil and peaceful, this is probably not the place to go.

    However, I would say that the whole site is very interesting and definitely worth a visit, especially if you like quirky things, are interested in art and Thai culture. 

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    Visiting Baan Dam, the Black House in Chiang Rai 

    I hadn’t known about the Black House in Chiang Rai until someone mentioned it to me a few days before the trip. I was intrigued and excited to see it for myself. 

    At first it looks like a Black Temple, not a Black House – it is shaped like a temple and it has some Buddha statues inside. As much as it can resemble a place of worship, it is not. It’s an art gallery.

    The Black House in Chiang Rai was built by a local artist Thawan Duchee, who is a very controversial figure in the Thai society. His earlier works were scrutinised by the critics and the public for disrespecting Buddhism. I think he created a building that resembles a black temple on purpose to shock people and make them think.

    Thanks to the help of some of the other prominent Thai artists, Thawan Duchee is now an influential figure in the Thai society. 

    The whole complex portrays hell and is a complete opposite of the White Temple. 

    The tour around the Black House

    The Black House, Baan Si Dam, is located in the north of Chiang Rai.

    A skull wit horns at the black house, chiang rai.
    This is a very interesting place with lots of things to ponder over.

    I think it is my favourite gallery place so far.

    The Black House is a total opposite to the White Temple and it is creepy, dark and a little scary.

    The main house is shaped like a black temple and contains furniture made out of animals’ parts. Inside it is dark, only lit by the open windows and doors. The central part of the room contains a long table with chairs made out of bones. On it lays a crocodile skin, painted black and lined with candles.
    A little bit of breeze blows through the building, making an echo sound, which can bring goose bumps to your skin.

    A table with crocodile skin and chair made out of bones in thailand.
    A dinner with the devil?

    I couldn’t help but imagine devils sitting around the tables, debating over current affairs in hell.

    There are around 40 smaller and bigger buildings around the complex. Each holds something different – there are art installations, storage spaces, where you can have a look at as well, some huts made to look like Thai country houses and some small shrines. Most show the works of the creator of the Black House, but others also exhibit Thai and international artists.

    A small black buidling with lanterns on it.
    There are over 40 houses scattered around the complex.

    The White Temple in Chiang Rai to me was a little too much. It seemed that someone tried too hard to make it quirky and unusual. The Black House was one, whole concept, where everything went together really well. I liked the idea of placing a white, pure building that symbolises heaven in one part of the city, and a black, hellish one in the other end.

    In conclusion, regardless whether it was intentional, or not it is a great way of placing Chiang Rai on a map of artistic places to visit.

    How to get there? 

    There are many options on how you can get to Chiang Rai and visit these two places. Here are some of the options. 

    I went by car with some of my friends. In addition, it was our first independent trip. Driving through the highway from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai was a little hectic and stressful and I’m not sure if I would recommend this type of transportation. However, if you feel like you can do it, then you can easily book your car through Discover Cars. You will need to pick it up from the airport, but some car rental companies offer to bring the car to you for an extra price, which is very convenient. 

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    Riding a small scooter there is a bad idea. It’s a long way and if you don’t have time and don’t plan on stopping somewhere, it will be very tiring. Besides, the main road is very busy and not very safe. 
    I would say that it can be a pleasurable ride for experienced motorcyclists. 

    As mentioned before, we had some problems with getting to the Black House. As this was a long time ago and there was no GPS, or the places in Thailand weren’t marked that well in Google Maps, you can be sure that nowadays it’s easier to find it. 

    There’s also an option of hiring your own driver that will take you from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai. 

    If you would like to go on a tour and visit the White Temple and Black House in Chiang Rai, then I recommend Take Me Tour. I have done many trips with them, including a Chinatown tour in Bangkok and the Mea Teang Dam and Blue Temple in Chiang Mai. You can also combine this trip with visiting the Blue Temple in Chiang Rai. I can’t recommend them enough. They are wonderful! Every trip is small, limited to a couple of people, customised to your needs and it seems like you’re on a tour with a friend, not with a guide. Check out their tour in Chiang Rai. It looks amazing! 

    If you want to take public transport, then a bus is the best option. 

    From Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai it’s about 3 hours drive. You can take a VIP bus from the Arcade Bus Station in Chiang Mai. Just head to the Green Line Bus stand. Don’t forget to pick up your queue number first!

    In the high season (October – March) it’s best to order tickets online a couple of days before. I highly recommend this way of purchasing tickets. It saves time and money! 

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    Once in Chiang Rai, you can take a bus from the station to the White Temple. There are 3 buses available: 1246, 1244 and 1241. Alternatively, you can take a blue songthaew, which costs 20 Baht per person. The journey will take around 30 minutes. 

    From there, you can order Grab (a Thai alternative to Uber. It’s easy to download it on your phone.) to get to the Black House. And from the Black House, order another taxi to take you either to the station, or to your hotel. 

    Admission costs 

    Visiting the White Temple costs 100 Baht per person.

    A ticket to see the Black House costs 80 Baht per person. 

    Opening hours 

    The temple is open from 8:00 until 5:30.

    The house is open from 08:00 until 5:00. 

    Where to stay? 

    If you’re planning on staying in Chiang Rai a couple of days, here are some suggestions of places to stay: 

    • Sofia Hostel – basic accommodation, but the rooms are clean and comfortable. It is located in the centre of the city. 
    • Ann Guest House 2 – conveniently located, close to the centre. It offers well equipped rooms. 
    • Happynest Hostel – clean, comfortable and a very good value for money. 
    • Baan Warabordee – amazing staff, lovely owner and great, clean, comfortable rooms. The hotel is in a very good location. 

    Do you have any questions? Would you like to share your experiences or your point of view? Don’t be shy! Leave a comment!