Alcântara, Lisbon: A Local’s Guide to the Neighbourhood Beyond LX Factory

Crowded Lisbon gets tiring. The city is beautiful, but the longer I’m there, the less I feel like spending time right in the city centre. So I look for places outside the centre, and when I find somewhere I like, I go back there often. That’s exactly how it was with Alcântara, home to the famous LX Factory, which you might recognise from Instagram. The fact is, however, that many visitors head to this area just to see that one thing, and don’t venture any further in. I’ve been living in Lisbon for over eight years and I return to Alcântara regularly to wander around and discover new streets. Come along with me on a tour and see Lisbon from a completely different angle.

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Quite a few people are looking for a Lisbon without the crowds. To find one, you need to get off the beaten track. Sometimes this means travelling a bit further afield, spending more time on public transport and getting to the more remote corners of the capital. Fortunately, Lisbon isn’t that big, and getting to Alcântara won’t take you long. I highly recommend exploring this part of the city if you’re looking for places off the beaten track.

Where is Alcântara and how to get there?

This part of Lisbon is on the way to Belém, which you’re sure to visit during your stay in Lisbon. You can get to Alcântara by taking tram no. 15 from the city centre or by train towards Caiscais from Cais do Sodré. Bus 760 from Praça do Comércio also goes there. You can buy bus and tram tickets from the driver. You can buy train tickets at the station. Also check out the Lisboa Card, which includes travel on public transport in Lisbon.

Find out more about how to move around Lisbon.

Most guidebooks focus on visiting LX Factory. It is the neighbourhood’s most popular attraction, but it is not the whole of Alcântara. It’s worth bearing this in mind when visiting the area.

LX without beating around the bush

Is LX Factory worth a visit, even though it’s a tourist spot? Yes! In my opinion, it’s well worth it, because young locals mingle with tourists here, and what’s more, in the shops you’ll find plenty of Portuguese independent brands and can buy souvenirs, clothes and books.

In LX, it’s definitely worth popping into the famous Ler Devagar bookshop. It’s one of the most photogenic spots on the Lisbon map. The place has been converted from an old printing works, and you can still see the printing presses and industrial décor here. The tall shelves are groaning under the weight of books. Right at the top, you’ll find a shop selling posters and vinyl records, as well as a café. Hovering above it all is a figure racing along on a bicycle. – The whole place is colourful and very interesting. Even if you don’t buy anything here, you can pop in to have a look around and take a souvenir photo.

At weekends, there’s a weekend market here. Along the pedestrianised street and at the back, behind the buildings on the square, you’ll find local produce, goods from small producers and items made by the stallholders themselves. Prices are reasonably affordable, and anyone who enjoys hunting for a bargain is sure to be pleased.

In my opinion, one of the most interesting parts of LX Factory is the pavilion in the building at number 103. You enter through a door that doesn’t look like much. On the first and second floors, small, niche shops invite you to browse. Here, handmade jewellery is mixed with colourful clothes that you won’t find anywhere else in Portugal. The building also houses offices and art studios. I once bought some lovely prints there myself to hang in my room.

There are also plenty of dining options at LX Factory – ranging from Mexican to Portuguese cuisine. There’s sushi, Thai pad thai and top-quality American burgers. A large number of visitors also stop off at Landeau, where they serve the viral chocolate cake.

Alcântara outside the LX Factory

Rua de 1 de Maio

It’s well worth taking a stroll down this street, which runs directly beneath the 25 April Bridge. The pavements paved with calçada portuguesa, the passing yellow trams and the small, local bars create an atmosphere that has long since disappeared from the centre of Lisbon. For me, it’s always a beautiful street for taking photos – for you, it’ll be the perfect souvenir of your stay in Lisbon. Be sure to slow down here and stop for a moment for a coffee or a beer. Savour the Portuguese calm at its very best.

Miradouro de Santo Amaro

This little-known viewpoint is tucked away in a small corner of Alcântara. You reach it by walking up a steep slope, climbing some steps and passing beautiful townhouses with interesting shapes. The entrance itself is already a sight to behold. Then you arrive at the viewpoint. At its summit stands the Chapel of Santo Amaro. Its oval shape sets it apart from the many churches and chapels in the capital. The entire porch is lined with blue and yellow azulejos featuring motifs of angels and flowers. Unfortunately, the chapel was closed during my visit, but I’ve heard that it’s often possible to go inside.

The viewing point offers a wonderful view of the 25 April Bridge. From here, you can see the river and the statue of Jesus the King. The whole area is quite large, but there aren’t any trees here and there’s no shelter from the sun on hot days. I found one spot where I could sit in peace. From there, I watched a family who’d come to the beach with their dog and were walking around the square. As it was a hot day, there was no one else around. I thought to myself that Santo Amaro would be a brilliant spot for the sunset and that I definitely must go back there.

Jardim Avelar Bortero

Not far away is the lovely little Avelar Bortero Park. It’s a typical little green space. It’s not really the sort of place for a stroll, but rather for relaxing under a tree. Right in the middle is a kiosk selling food and drink. In June, during the Santos Populares festival, music plays here in the evenings and locals gather for parties. During the day, whatever the season, it’s very peaceful here. You might even have a natter with the local elderly gentlemen who play draughts and chess here.

I came here on a sweltering day, after visiting the Santo Amaro viewpoint. An elderly man sat down next to me and struck up a conversation. Alberto, the elderly gentleman, was holding a copy of *The Prince* by Machiavelli; first he asked me to take a photo of him, and then he asked me about my life. In the end, he tried to invite me out for lunch or dinner, or at least for a glass of wine, but I declined. It was nice, though, to have a chat and make contact with someone who’s lived in Lisbon since he was a child.

Doca de Alcantâra

For those who fancy sitting by the river, I recommend Doca do Alcântara. Right under the 25 April Bridge, by the piers, there’s a marina for sailing boats and other vessels, and next to it are small buildings housing restaurants and bars. Here you can have a beer, a cocktail or some fish. Prices are higher than elsewhere in Lisbon.

A little further on are some tennis courts, and behind them is a spot where you can sit and look out over the river and the opposite bank. Although it’s noisy from the trains and cars passing overhead, Doca de Alcântara is certainly a pleasant place to spend some time.

The streets of Alcantâra

Until recently, Alcântara was a neighbourhood that people didn’t really go to for sightseeing. It was rather poor, and few people ventured here. The LX Factory and Doca de Alcântara have certainly changed things. Now it’s a neighbourhood where many immigrants from the West and digital nomads are moving to. Property prices have soared and the area has suddenly become highly sought-after. At present, gentrification isn’t all that noticeable here, as local shops, cafés and bakeries are still going strong in the neighbourhood. Laundry hangs from the windows above the streets, and locals from Lisbon linger on the benches. Alcantâra still has that certain something, which is why it’s a place that should be on your list if you’re heading to Lisbon.

Where to eat and drink in Alcantâra?

If you want to eat like a local

Londrina do Santo Amaro – a small tasca serving Portuguese dishes. It’s right next to the Santo Amaro chapel.

Ze de Tasca – a typical spot for lunch, dinner and a quick beer. It has a very Portuguese atmosphere.

Churrasqueira A Tapada – grilled chicken, absolutely delicious, but it’s only available to take away.

If you are looking for something extra

Nood – Asian dishes, mostly Thai.

La Ruda – Mexican cuisine at LX Factory

Burguer & smashed – a very popular spot for burgers

How much time to spend in Alcântara and how to combine the visit with the rest of Lisbon?

Alcântara is quite a long way from the city centre. That’s why it’s worth planning your trip here carefully. One option is to combine it with a visit to Belém. Head there in the morning and see the main attractions. You can spend the afternoon in Alcântara. For example, you could come here for lunch or an early dinner and go for a walk around the area. In summer, this will be quite easy, as the days are long. In winter, you’ll need to plan a bit more carefully and make sure you see Belém sooner rather than later.

Visiting LX Factory and Santo Amaro could take you anywhere from 2–3 hours to as long as a whole day. It all depends on what you want to do there and how you like to explore. I think those who love shopping might find it hard to leave LX Factory and move on.

Suggested itinerary:

8–9 am – Arrive in Belém and explore

12 noon – Lunch in Belém

2–3 pm – Travel to LX Factory – The quickest way is by Uber, but you can also use public transport. The 751 bus will take you from Belém to LX.

From 3 pm – exploring LX and Alcântara

6–7 pm – Dinner in Alcântara

Alcântara – where to stay?

Quite a few people always stay in the centre of Lisbon. Alcântara could be a good choice for those who want to experience a less touristy side of Lisbon, get away from the crowds and get a taste of local life. This neighbourhood may also be slightly cheaper than other parts of the capital.

LX Factory Hostel – right next to LX Factory, a budget option

Docas Hotel Lisbon – by the river and close to restaurants

The Bridge – an apartment with a terrace offering views

Pestana Palace – a more luxurious option, for a higher budget.

See where else it’s worth staying in Lisbon.