Phi Ta Khon: The Ghost Festival Nobody Warned Me About

Sweat is pouring off me, but I stand calmly in the crowd of onlookers. I move a little closer to the couple next to me, who are holding an umbrella that casts a bit of shade. This helps me avoid the sun, which is burning like fire. From a distance, I hear the countdown—sam, song, nueng (three, two, one)—and the rumbling of drums begins. “They’re coming,” a young girl standing next to me says to me in English. “Finally,” I reply, “It’s terribly hot.” The Thai girl smiles at me and nods in understanding, but after a moment, we both turn to face the parade. In the distance, we see colorful costumes and dancing spirits who will be summoning rain and bountiful harvests today. I invite you to Phi Ta Khon—the Ghost Festival in Thailand.

Do you want to go to Phi Tha Khon, but you’re not sure how to fit that in your schedule?

Festivals like Phi Ta Khon are an unforgettable experience, but fitting them into a larger trip around Thailand—including Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and the islands—can be a real logistical puzzle. Download my free Thailand Travel Plan: 7 Decisions That Will Shape Your Trip. I’ll show you exactly how to divide your time between the North, South, and the islands so you can discover off-the-beaten-path places like Dansai without having to give up the rest of your dream itinerary.

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I’m in Dansai—a tiny town in Loei Province, in the northeast. This is a region known to Thais as Isaan, characterized by its own language, culture, and cuisine. This area, which is primarily agricultural, is rarely visited by tourists because it’s far away and the surroundings aren’t particularly interesting to someone visiting Thailand for the first time. It’s only after living here for years and traveling around—just like I have—that many people begin to take an interest in it. Here you’ll see mostly forests, villages, and farmland, but it’s also here that the peaceful, idyllic Thailand many people seek is hidden away.

For several years now, Isaan has been a dream of mine, and I’ve always wanted to come here and see Phi Tha Khon—and today that dream is coming true.

What is Phi Tha Khon?

Phi Tha Khon is a festival that traces its origins to the legend of a local prince who was the reincarnation of the Buddha. When he returned home after a long absence, animals and spirits came out of the forest to welcome him. To commemorate this event, the Phi Tha Khon Festival is held in Dansai.

The festival also serves as an invitation to the spirit and patron of the river—Phra Upakut—who is asked to provide protection, a bountiful harvest, and rain during the upcoming rainy season. It is, therefore, a blend of religion and local beliefs into one wild, colorful celebration.

Phi Tha Khon takes place every year in Dansai around mid-June. The dates of this festival vary. I found out about them on the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s Facebook page. They were announced in December, six months before the festival.

Three days of good fun – What happens during the Phi Tha Khon Festival?

The Phi Tha Khon Festival lasts three days. In 2026, it took place over a weekend. It’s worth attending at least the first two days, which are the most colorful and chaotic.

The first day features ceremonies at the local temple at 4 a.m. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the chance to attend them because my resort didn’t provide transportation and I couldn’t rent a scooter. I do know, however, that the spirit of Phra Upakut is invoked first at the temple and then by the river.

During the day, stalls and funfairs line the main street in Dansai, and the town’s temple hosts an exhibition of Phi Tha Khon masks. There are far fewer people in town at that time, so you can wander around freely, browse the stalls, and grab a bite to eat. I recommend heading there around 5:00 p.m. Around sunset, you start to hear a distinctive ringing. That’s the spirits coming out to party. Locals dressed in colorful costumes start celebrating. Of the entire festival, this evening was my favorite. Because there were so few visitors, I was able to walk freely among the costumed revelers and take photos. The ghosts are in a great mood; they often stop, dance, pose, and have the time of their lives.

I was completely captivated by this part of the festival. I walked around town for a few hours, stopping to look at groups of ghosts, taking pictures of them, and had plenty of space and time to take it all in. There was also plenty of room on the main street for the ghosts to dance. I really liked that visitors and onlookers could just dance with them.

The second day was the parade. It was scheduled for 10:30 a.m. I was there at 10:00 to get a good spot. I didn’t know at the time that it didn’t matter at all. The parade started around 11:00. By then, I was already drenched in sweat, because the temperature must have been around 40 degrees, and the humidity over 90%. Pretty soon, though, I forgot just how uncomfortable I was feeling.

The parade in Dansai was one of the craziest and most chaotic events I’ve ever been to in Thailand. The spirits mingled with the crowd, danced with them, and posed for photos. There were no designated lines to stand behind. We were all part of the celebration.

Groups of ghosts passed through the parade, followed by huge trucks with music blaring so loudly that I could feel my clothes vibrating against my body from the bass. The floats were decorated in various ways. There were pirate ships, food stalls, a jungle, and lavish cars. You could see just how much creativity, imagination, and hard work the residents had put into this festival and into making it look so amazing.

The parade seemed to go on forever. Around 1:00 p.m., it was still moving forward, and new floats, new costumed participants, and new creations of the human imagination were emerging from around the corner. An hour later, with the sun beating down relentlessly, I followed the crowd toward the end of the street. There, I stopped briefly for a drink and to watch some local music performances. Near a nearby temple, people were lying on the grass, sleeping, dancing, and drinking beer—something I’d never seen before in Thailand.

I left the parade shortly before 3:00 p.m. I was a bit fed up with the noise and chaos, as well as the relentless sun. I hailed a motorbike taxi and headed back to the resort.

There were also fireworks displays that evening, but I didn’t have the energy left for that.

The third day of the Phi Tha Khon Festival focuses mainly on meditation and sermons delivered by monks at the main temple in Dansai. On this day, people rest after the madness of the previous days.

Masks and costumes of Phi Tha Khon

I’d like to focus here on the significance of the masks and costumes at this wonderful festival, because they are true works of art.

The mask itself is handmade. The top part consists of a basket used for making sticky rice. It is specially assembled and glued together. Beneath it is the main, handcrafted mask. Very often, these masks are carved with various patterns and painted in a color chosen by the artist. Sometimes it’s simply a piece of wood that’s been painted.

The Phi Tha Khon costume is made of loose-fitting fabric. Its color must match that of the mask. The spirit has bells tied to its waist—bells that are normally hung around a buffalo’s neck. When someone dressed as Phi Tha Khon walks down the street, you can hear them from a great distance.

Many spirits carry what is known as a Palad Khik—a phallus-shaped sword. It is an amulet that protects against evil and brings prosperity. Phi Tha Khon’s phalluses come in various forms; some even have a special mechanism that allows them to extend when a string is pulled.

Remember about this during the festival

As you stroll through the side streets, you’ll notice that Phi Tha Khon groups consist of families and friends. Everyone in a given group wears similar colors and patterns. They are mostly young people. Their festival begins with gathering in front of one of the houses, drinking beer, and playing loud music. Here, the Thais let their hair down a bit and are eager to interact with onlookers. They dance, sing, and pose for photos. It’s a great opportunity to get to know the local residents of Dansai.

I’m a rather shy person, so I watched from a distance as the ghosts danced tirelessly all day and into the evening, inviting those standing on the sidelines to join in the fun. I was particularly struck by the first Phi Tha Khon group, which was just about to set off down the main street. The costumed participants—mostly boys and men—came out of the house. They pulled out huge speakers, put on their masks, and took over the entire roadway. They danced, made a lot of noise, and waved at me to take their picture. That shyness so characteristic of Thais had completely vanished.

From a distance, Phi Tha Khon may seem like just a lot of fun. There’s no shortage of alcohol, the music is loud, and everyone is really having a good time. However, it’s important to remember that Phi Tha Khon has its roots in Buddhist religion and beliefs. It is therefore of great significance to the local population.

The residents of Dansai believe that this festival and the rituals associated with it will bring them a bountiful harvest and good fortune. They participate not only in the parade but also in religious, atmospheric ceremonies, and, as is often the case in Thailand, every aspect of this festival has a symbolic meaning. Here, the costumes, masks, dances, and the activities that take place before, during, and immediately after the parade all hold significance.

Just like during Songkran in Chiang Mai, it’s easy to forget why this festival is celebrated. Remember that the locals approach all the ceremonies with a smile, but also take them very seriously. So have fun responsibly and with respect for local beliefs and customs.

Phi Tha Khon Festival in Dansai – Practical Information

How to get to Dansai?

The easiest way is to fly from Bangkok to Loei. I flew with AirAsia. The flight took an hour. After landing, you have a few options:

• Take a taxi from the airport (they’re waiting in front of the terminal) to the bus station, and then take a bus to Dansai. Buses run a few times a day. Check the schedule on 12GoAsia.
• Take a taxi directly to Dansai. – That’s what we did. We paid 1,200 THB for the ride. The trip takes about an hour.
• Rent a car at the airport. Cars are sometimes available on Discovercars. You can also try to rent one without a reservation. There are a few car rental counters at the airport.

Another option is to fly to Phitsanolouk, but that city is farther away than Loei.

There are also buses from Bangkok to Loei, but the trip takes about 8 hours.

Some people rent a car in Bangkok and drive there on their own.

Where to stay in Dansai?

Dansai doesn’t have many places to stay. There are a few resorts and guesthouses in the area. I stayed at the beautiful Phunacome Resort. They offer truly wonderful rooms with private bathrooms and balconies, or Lanna-style cottages (a traditional Thai style characterized by dark teak wood).

The resort has a small, well-maintained pool with lounge chairs and a large garden. You can really relax there.

The only downside—and at the same time, an upside—is the location. The resort is about 2 km from town and doesn’t offer motorcycles or cars for rent. The owner will drive you to town upon request, but she doesn’t always offer this service and not at all hours (which is why I didn’t go to the morning ceremonies). On the way back, during the festival, you could catch a motorcycle taxi for about 100–200 THB one way.

Check other options in Dansai.

What else to remember about?

I think the worst part of this festival for me was probably the weather. It was incredibly hot. I’ve been traveling around Thailand for 14 years, but this was really more than I could handle at times. Even when the sun wasn’t out, I was sweating buckets. Standing for so many hours at the parade was tough.

That’s why I want to warn you and advise you to bring:

• Sunscreen
• A hat or cap
• An umbrella—Thais use them to shield themselves from the sun
• Plenty of water
• Cash to buy more water (avoid drinking alcohol)
• Comfortable shoes

It’s also best to wear something breathable—linen clothes work great here. I’d recommend wearing long sleeves and long pants to avoid getting sunburned.

Phi Tha Khon Festival FAQs

When does Phi Ta Khon take place?

The festival is held annually in Dansai, in Loei Province, usually around mid-June. The exact dates vary and are announced about 6 months in advance (usually in December) by the Tourism Authority of Thailand.

How long does the Phi Ta Khon Festival last?

The festival lasts three days. The first day features morning ceremonies at the temple and by the river, followed by an evening “warm-up” in the streets. The second day is the main parade. The third day is devoted to meditation and sermons by monks.

Is it worth going for all three days?

The most colorful and intense days are the first (in the evening) and the second (the parade). The third day is calmer and more religious in nature, so if you’re short on time, the first two days offer the most complete experience.

I arrive at the resort sweaty, tired, and a little dazed. I step into the air-conditioned room with a sense of relief, but also with great satisfaction. My dream of attending the Phi Tha Khon Festival has come true! I was there, I saw it with my own eyes, and I can count this fantastic event among the best experiences I’ve had in Thailand.

To be honest, I’m not sure if I’d come back here just to see Phi Tha Khon again. Probably not because of the heat, but I’d definitely stop by Dansai again and explore the surrounding area. I recommend Phi Tha Khon to you if you’re interested in Thailand and this is something that fascinates you. Just make sure to prepare well and have fun!